01: Town Market:
Formerly known as Estella Market, which was named after
Estella, Countess Cave, sister of General Sir Lloyd Mathews
(first Minister of Zanzibar Government) and widow of Earl
Cave – fruit and vegetables of all kinds are sold in great
profusion, while in the Saidiyeh Market which was opened in
1904 and named after the dynasty of Sultans (Albusaid) –
fish, meat and poultry are on sale.
02: Slave Market / Slave Chambers / Anglican Church
The Slave Market
– the Cathedral stands on the last slave market to open in
Zanzibar. The Christian religion played a significant role
and Britain in particular in suppressing the slave trade.
The mission was directly inspired by an appeal made by Dr.
Livingstone.
Anglican
Church
– The foundation stone was laid in 1873. Bishop Steere was
the master builder and clerk of works and his devoted
supervision meant to the fabric. His absence for a short
period resulted in the marble pillars of the Baptistery
being erected upside down, the capitals serving as bases.
That is how they are seen today.
The Slave Chambers
– Beneath St. Monica’s House lies underground chambers that
were used to hold slaves for the nearby Market.
03: National Museum: (Peace Memorial) –
On the 11th
November 1925 His Highness Sultan Seyyid Sir Khalifa bin
Haroub named it (Bait el Amaan – the House of Peace). Built
as a Peace Memorial from funds subscribed by the Government
and by the various committees, and founded largely owing to
the enthusiasm of Dr. A. H. Surrier, its first Curator, the
Museum was opened on Armistice Day, 1925. The architect was
Mr. J. H. Sinclair, whose original sketches are preserved
in the Museum. The design derived from the type of a mosque
and circular building, originated in Constantinople
(Istanbul.) by Mr. J.H. Sinclair, the architect. Due to the
interest shown by the public and the growth of the
activities of the Museum, it was decided in 1929 to build
an extension to the existing premises, which was later
opened in 1930.
04: Natural Museum:
It was the first of its kind in all of East Africa and was
used as a library for much historic survey. These include a
valuable library of books on Zanzibar and East Africa. An
attractive display of plaster bas-reliefs of fish,
crustacea, etc., painted in their natural colours can be
found. The exhibits also include stuffed specimens of local
birds, a small but useful herbarium of native plants, and a
collection of shells.
05:
Africa House:
(former English Club): Has a fine carved door and was
formerly used as an English Club by the many English people
who were then residents of Zanzibar.
06: Tippu Tip House:
The house was once once the residence of the well-known
Arab traveller and trader, Hamed bin Mohammed el-Marjebi
(Tippu Tip) who died in 1905. He is said to have earned his
sobriquet from the fact that his red rimmed eyes resembled
those of a small bird known locally as the Tippu Tip bird
and scientifically by the name Centropus supercilious. One
of his swords and other relics has been presented to the
Museum.
07: Old Fort:
was build by Albusaidi family of Oman in the
17th
century. They used it for the purpose of defending
themselves
against any threats from Portuguese or Omani rival groups.
In the latter part of the 16th
century the Portuguese established a trading depot on the
site of the existing Arab Fort. A church was also erected
at a later date on the same spot. After the expulsion of
the Portuguese, the Arabs used the materials of these
building to construct a fort. Early in the
18th
century Fatima, whom Portuguese records describe as “Queen”
of Zanzibar, was living under close supervision somewhere
in the vicinity of this fort. She remained loyal while the
rest of the Swahilis allied themselves with Oman.
08:
House of Wonders:
The largest building ever seen in Zanzibar, was erected in
1883 by Seyyid Barghash
(Sultan 1870-1888) for ceremonial purposes. It is said to
have been designed by a marine engineer. On the death of
Seyyid Hamed (Sultan 1893-1896), it was bombarded with
adjoining buildings, by the British fleet during the brief
usurpation of the throne by Seyyid Khalid,
(the
but unlike the other buildings, it suffered comparatively
little damage. The clock tower was added later to replace
the former lighthouse, which stood by itself on the front
close to the sea and was severely damaged in the
bombardment. The clock tower at the entrance, stand two
fine Old Portuguese guns made not later than the middle of
the 16th
century. On the larger one are the Portuguese Royal Arms,
the cipher (ornate) and standard of King John III, and a
plan sphere of the world.
09: Sultan Palace: (Palace Museum)
The building was first occupied by a reigning sovereign in
1911 when the late Sultan Seyyid Sir Khalifa bin Haroub
acceded. Before then it accommodated members of the Royal
family and the harem. General Sir Lloyd Mathews also lived
for some time and eventually died in it. The walled garden
is the site of a former royal place Beit el-Sahil (the
house near the sea) which was built a little before 1834 by
Seyyid Said (Sultan 1804 – 1856) and destroyed in the
bombardment of 1896.
– Now a Museum –
depicts the memoirs of Al-Busaidi Dynasty.
10:
Old Dispensary:
Built in July 1887, to commemorate 50th anniversary of
Queen Victoria Reign. It housed a dispensary in the ground
floor with a pharmacy and a resident doctor. Since its
inauguration about 100 years ago, the old dispensary has
been hailed as a symbol of multicultural Zanzibar
architecture. It’s design, it’s rich decoration and its
construction techniques are one of exceptional quality. The
plan of the U-shaped building – the traditional pattern and
its characterised by series of rather small, mostly
independent room arranged along the interior arcades facing
a central courtyard.
11: Old Harbour:
Anchorage for Dhows which visit Zanzibar in the northeast
monsoon (December – March) and return in the southwest
monsoon (April – October). Some of these vessels are fine
examples of oriental ship-building and remains to play an
important part in trade between Zanzibar and other coastal
towns of East Africa.
12: Dr. David Livingstone House:
Now houses the offices of Zanzibar Tourist Corporation, was
placed at the disposal of the famous Explorer, Dr. David
Livingstone, for some weeks when fitting out his last
expedition to the mainland in 1866. It later became the
properties of Ithnasheri Khoja-Indian community who used it
as a rest house for invalids and as a place of religious
meeting to be known as Sonbagh. In 1947 the Government
purchased it and renovated for the use of a laboratory for
scientific research and living quarters.
13: Maruhubi Palace (Ruin/Gardens):
It was bought by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870 – 1888) from
an Arab of the Marahubi tribe (hence the name); the estate
is thickly planted with mango trees imported from India.
The stone aqueducts were constructed for the supply of
water from Chem-Chem spring to the Palace and Baths and for
cultivation purposes. At the end of the avenue of mango
trees are the artificial ponds adorned with blue water
lilies (Nymphoea capensis), a beautiful sight when in
flower. Seyyid Barghash built the Palace for the use of his
harem in 1880 – 1882. The walls surrounding the gardens are
said to have cost English Pounds 16,000 (a large sum in
those days), and to have inspired by the park walls seen by
Seyyid Barghash in 1875 when on a visit to England. The
Palace was accidentally burnt down in 1899, but some of the
pillars that formally supported large balconies and part of
the walls still remain. Adjoining the Palace are the domed
Persian Baths from which however, the marble pavements and
other embellishments have been removed? Conversations under
the domes produce strange echoes. The Royal Navy used the
Baths as magazine during the 1914 – 1918
Wars.
14: Kibweni Palace:
(Kassrusaada Palace) – One of the country residences of His
Highness the Sultan. This was built in 1915 from the
designs of Mr. J.H. Sinclair, C.M.G., C.B.E., (successively
Consul, Chief Secretary and British Resident in Zanzibar
from 1899 – 1924). The Palace and grounds are not open to
the public.
15:
Persian Baths:
(Kidichi) – Legally protected historical monument. This
block of Persian-style bath comprises the remains of a
country’s house of Sultan Seyyid Said, Zanzibar ruler in
1804 – 1856. Traditionally, the rest house was built for
the use of his Persian wife, Princess Sherezade, the grand
daughter of Mohammad Shah of Persia. He married in 1847 a
date 1247 A.H. – (1832 A.D.) inscribed into stuccowork
decorating the interior of the baths. If the time of
construction is affirmed, the Sultan must have built the
baths before the marriage took place.
16: Prison (Changu) Island: (Giant
Tortoise) this island is approximately half a mile long and
one-eighth of a mile wide and was formerly owned by an Arab
and used as private place of detention for recalcitrant
slaves. General Mathews bought it and the gaol, which still
stands, was built in 1893, as a central prison for
Zanzibar. It was however, never utilised as such. It also
housed the infectious disease hospital for Zanzibar. There
are many large tortoises here, some of them over 3ft in
diameter. Excellent bathing may be had from the shore
facing the Town, which is a favourite resort for picnic
parties.
17: Grave Island (Chapwani):
Formerly known as “French Island” and contains a cemetery
which was reserved in 1879 by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870
– 1888) for the burial of English people. Bishop Steere
(< biblio >) consecrated it in 1880. Here are the
graves of old residents of Zanzibar and officers and men of
the Royal Navy and the Merchant Marine who have died in
Zanzibar since 1811. Amongst them are those of some of the
British sailors who were killed in the action between
H.M.S. Pegasus and the German cruiser Koenigsberg in
September 1914. Also buried here are Colonel Hamerton, the
first British Consul (died 1857), and Lieutenant Cooper,
R.N. of H.M.S. Griffon who lost his life in an attack on a
slave dhow in 1888.
18: Bat (Kipandiko) Island:
This is the small island that lies between Grave and Prison
Islands. It is uninhabited except by flying foxes which
cross to Zanzibar at dusk to feed on the fruit trees.
19: Bawe Island:
Uninhabited, having been ceded to the Cables & Wireless
by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870 – 1888)
20: Chumbe Island:
The lighthouse on this island, which is eight miles from
Zanzibar and opposite Chukwani, was erected in 1990 and now
contains an automatic light. There is a mosque near the
lighthouse; Ships proceeding to Dar-es-Salaam pass close on
the port bow. The island has been developed into a Nature
Reserve and harbours one of the most spectacular coral
gardens in the world and comprises Chumbe Reef Sanctuary
–
and
boasts of 7 Eco-Bungalows en-suite with solar-powered
halogen lights, blends perfectly with the surrounding
nature and situated between the beach and
forest
21: Jozani Forest:
This remnant of primeval forest, some 2 and a quarter
square miles in area and the only one of its kind in the
island, is the home of pigs, monkeys, leopards and
occasionally pythons, and contains many interesting forest
trees. The forest has now been declared a reserve and holds
the rare and Red Colobus Monkeys to be seen anywhere else
in the world. It was closed to controls exploitation in
1957 to allow rejuvenation and is being systematically
replanted with mtondoo (Calophyllum inophyllum)
22: Dunga Palace:
Here lived the Mwinyi Mkuu, the last but one of a long
dynasty of Chiefs of supposed Shirazian descent who were
the rulers of Zanzibar before the permanent Arab settlement
from Oman in the early 18th
century. Their subjects looked upon the chiefs with the
greatest awe and veneration. The builder of the existing
ruins was born probably about 1785 and died in 1865. The
Palace, which was erected between 1845 and 1856, was pulled
down in 1910 or 1911 and only a few of the walls remain.
Some of the archways and rooms on the ground floor can
still be seen. Slaves are said to have been buried alive
within the walls. Some years ago the sacred Swahili drums
and horns of carved wood were found here.
23: Kizimkazi:
(Dimbani) – is thought by some to have been one of the old
capitals of the island. Traces of an old Shirazian
settlement (probably a fort) may still be seen in an
enclosure surrounded by a wall near the seashore. A spot on
the shore is said by the natives to have been the place
where the founder of the settlement, praying to be saved
from his enemies, disappeared in a rock which opened and
shut behind him. Near the walled enclosure is an ancient
Mosque (Shirazian), the scenes of a recent archaeological
research, which may be entered with permission and provided
the visitor’s shoes are first removed. The most interesting
part of the mosque is the ornate MIHRAB (corresponding to
the altar in a Christian church) and the north wall, along
which there is a frieze of passages from the Koran. An
inscription in Kufic characters on the left of the MIHRAB
gives the date of the building of the mosque as A.H. 500
(A.D. 1107). Nearby there is a nother inscription (in
Arabic) which states that the mosque was repaired in A.H.
1184 (A.D. 1770). The mosque, which is thought to be the
only one on the East African Coast where so much Kufic
exists, has been the subject of a monograph by Professor
Flury of Cairo (The Kufic Inscriptions of Kizimkazi Mosque,
Zanzibar A.H. 500 (A.D. 1107). The mosque is still in use
todate. Outside is a well and graves of Sheriffs
(descendants of the Prophet)
24: Mbweni Church:
(the place of shingle) – The village was purchased and
developed for the Universities’ Mission to Central in 1871
by Bishop Tozer (Bishop of Zanzibar 1863 – 1873). Here in
1874 Bishop Tozer’s successor, Bishop Steere, established a
colony of freed slaves rescued from time to time from
slave-trading vessels by His Majesty’s ships. Ruins of the
houses built for them are to be seen to-date.
25: Mtoni Palace:
(Mtoni, the place of river) – The Palace, which was
described by Burton as looking like the Gothic castle of a
German Prince, was unusually large and is said to have
accommodated 1,000 dependents. An Arab named Saleh bin
Haramili who is reputed to have first introduced the clove
tree into Zanzibar from Mauritius or Bourbon built this
house some time before 1828. Seyyid Said (Sultan 1804 –
1856) is said to have confiscated the building on the
ground that Saleh was indulging in slave trade in
contravention of a treaty, which Seyyid Said had concluded
in 1822 with Great Britain. On his departure for Muscat
three months later, he left his son Khaled in residence
there as Governor of Zanzibar. Most of Seyyid Said’s many
children (sixteen sons and sixteen daughters survived him)
were born at Mtoni. The life at the palace has been
described by one daughter (Seyyida Salme, who married a
German) in Memoirs of an Arab Princess.
26: Catholic Church:
(St. Joseph’s) – Was formerly a cathedral until Zanzibar
became part of the combined diocese of Mombasa and
Zanzibar. It was originally proposed in 1894 that this
cathedral should be designed by Mr. Pordage, First Engineer
to His Highness” Government, and it is recorded that he
asked for eight days in which to prepare the plans.
Subsequently it was designed in Romanesque style by Mr. M.
Berangier, the architect of Notre Dame de la Garde at
Marseilles; the first stone was laid in the foundations on
the 10th
July, 1896, and the work was executed by lay brothers with
local workmen supervised by Father Kuhn, who was ent from
Europe for the work. Bishop Allgeyer, Vicar-Apostle of
Zanzibar celebrated the first Mass on 25th December 1898 in
the new cathedral, when His Highness Band was in
attendance.
27: High Court:
In Saracen style, which may be recognised by the clock and
the domed roof? On top of the building there was a
ring
(no longer in place)
that in other Muslim countries is said to represent the
ring by which, at last day, the Archangel Gabriel will
carry the structure to heaven. Mr. J.H. Sinclair a C.M.G.,
C.B.E., designed the Courts. In the centre is a fine carved
door that is well worth inspection.
28: Mangapwani:
(the Arab Shore) – a district in which live many Arabs. In
the village there is a Police Station, also a large
Government “Bungalow” which was built by the Arab who
originally owned Prison Island. In the locality of
Mangapwani slaves were often received and shipped, a
subterranean chamber on the shore, some ten minutes walk to
the north of the bungalow, being used as a place of
concealment pending their disposal. A cleverly concealed
path cut into the rock leads from near the chamber to the
beach.
29 Zanzibar Doors:
Zanzibar town has one feature in particular, which besides
being one of its most distinctive characteristics, is of
special interest and attraction, namely, its antique Arab
Doors. A fine door was considered a most important part of
an Arab house; it was the custom for a prospective builder
first to order a carved door-frame and then get it fixed in
its place, to build the house on to it. – Procedure is
still followed – the door which frequently had the
householder’s monogram, together with the date,
incorporated in the carving on the lintel, was regarded as
an indication of his social status. The typical door is
halved door, made of one of the more, termite and
weatherproof foreign woods such as teak or sesame, and is
set in a square frame. Each half-door is decorated with
pointed brass bosses, the right one (looking from inside)
terminating in a heavy, carved centre-panel which covers
the junction, with the left one. Incidentally, the names
for the right and left half-door signify –“the male door”
and “the female door”. The door is closed from the inside
by means of a bolt and from the outside by means of a hasp,
suspended from a chain fixed in the left half-door.
30: Arab Chests:
A curio which entices the money out of your pocket – Known
to be made in Persia and India, are only identified with
Arabs on account of the fact that they have been an item of
importation into Zanzibar by dhows which come from Arabia
and the adjacent countries. They are made, for most part,
of teak, and are kept on stands or round wooden blocks.
They have lock-and-key drawers; a small internal lidded
partition, and sometimes a secret compartment; along brass
hinges running up the inside of the lid. They are secured
by a hasp, staple (often the middle one of three) and
padlock.